The beating heart of Albuquerque nostalgia.

Sprawling on the inside, you order at the cash registers. The counter girls wear bandanas and the poor boys pushing fetid mops past your table endure paper hats.

I didn’t have much room after Barela’s and had to catch my train back so I just ordered a cup of green chile stew.

It had delicious green chile notes to it, but the meat and broth rendered it rather like a canned soup. Great for a cheap cafeteria meal, but not much more than that. I thought the flour tortilla that came with it was inedible. It was sweet, vapidly thin and lacking in bite or texture. I was quite surprised to learn from my friend that they’re extremely popular! People drive to Frontier just to buy these tortillas. What?